Aquatic Training Vessels swim spas feature two 90 square foot filters, an ozonator, and an automated water filtration management system called ConstantClean™. This system makes it easy for you to keep ATV clean and the water circulating through the vessel. Water is drawn from the top and bottom of the vessel and through the filters, then circulated back into the vessel.
To truly have clean, safe water, you need three things:
Achieving water balance is easy if you understand what balance can do. First of all, sanitation and water balance are not the same thing. Water balance is an interrelation of factors, which directly impact the effectiveness of sanitizer in the water. The primary elements of water balance are: pH balance, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness. Let's look at each one individually and consider why it is important.
Water pH is a measure of its relative acidity and basicity. Keeping the pH balanced in your vessel is the most critical component of balancing your water. Calcium hardness and total alkalinity act as buffers to stabilize pH. When they are adjusted correctly, pH will be stable and easy to maintain.
The ideal pH range for water is between 7.4 to 7.6. When pH falls below 7.2 the water can become corrosive. Low pH may damage the internal components of your control system or heater. Other symptoms of low pH are excessive sanitizer consumption, skin irritation, and/or persistent foaming. A pH above 7.8 can be scale forming, allowing metals or minerals in the water to stain the vessel surface and cause calcium buildup. This forms deposits on the vessel heater element which damage internal components. A pH above 7.8 may also cause eye and skin irritation.
Alkalinity acts as a buffer to prevent the pH from changing as other substances are added to the water. Stability of the pH is directly related to Alkalinity, which should remain at 80 to 140 parts-per-million (ppm). Alkalinity below 80ppm makes it difficult to stabilize the pH. Alkalinity above 140ppm may increase the pH and cause cloudy water, scaling and decreased efficiency of the sanitizer.
Please note that when using a combined product of pH & Alkalinity Decreaser, it may be better to slowly dose the vessel. Large doses will affect the pH and also have more impact on Alkalinity. For example, if the pH is very high and Alkalinity is within range, you may want to add smaller doses of pH & and Alkalinity Decreaser instead of one single large dose, which can lower your alkalinity out of range.
Most water contains some calcium, but what you need is a calcium level somewhere between 200 to 300ppm. Calcium hardness may be adjusted when filling the vessel with fresh water, so test first to see what the calcium level is before adding any product. “Soft Water” will have most of the Calcium pulled out, but do not fill your vessel with “soft water.” Traditionally, soft water is treated with salt (a corrosive). Ask anyone in the Northeastern Unites Stated when icy roads are salted. The salt corrodes the undercarriage of cars, and will do the same to internal spa components. There should be some calcium in the water, or it may become highly corrosive and damage equipment.
When initially filling the vessel with water, follow the simple steps as outlined and make your water care a breeze:
Now that you have balanced the water, it’s time to sanitize. But first, let’s discuss some of the related features of your ATV.
ATV swim spas are equipped with the SmartClean™ system. This works in conjunction with sanitizers to increase water quality and significantly decrease maintenance. Filters pull water through so that it may be treated with ozone. SmartClean™ automatically schedules filtration cycles. Periodically, filters should be removed and cleaned for optimum performance, ensuring that suspended solids are removed from your water.
Ozone exists in nature. If you have ever smelled the air after a lightning strike, that sweet-smelling odor is ozone. When oxygen molecules (O2) are electrified they convert to ozone (O3). In the context of water care, when ozone gas enters the water and is exposed to bacteria and organics, it will oxidize the contaminants, get used up, and revert back to oxygen. This reduces the workload of the sanitizer. In other words, ATV's factory-installed ozonator is a rapid-action oxidizer to keep your water clean and your chemical usage to a minimum.
Because swim spa water is cooler than a hot tub, you may use granular chlorine as a sanitizer. Chlorine is more compatible with the ATV system than most bromine systems. However, you may choose bromine if you are sensitive to chlorine. Biguanides may cause damage to internal components and should not be used.
For your initial treatment, once the water has been balanced, you may now begin the process of sanitizing the vessel using a granular Chlorine Sanitizer OR Bromine.
You should only use non-chlorine shock after you have established a residual of a preferred sanitizer, such as Chlorine or Bromine. As “Shock” is commonly referred to as MPS or Potassium Monopersulfate, which is an oxidizer not a sanitizer, with Chlorine or Bromine, you’ll be able to oxidize and sanitize. Use MPS or non-chlorine shock as a weekly maintenance product.
Once bacteria and other wastes are neutralized by the sanitizer, they will remain in the water unless oxidized or shocked. Often called Chloramines or Bromamines, the spent sanitizer is what remains after killing bacteria, and to get it out of the water, it must be burned off or oxidized. Your ozonator will help with this, but because of the short life of ozone, you will want to also shock. Most pools or swim spas that have well balanced water should not have a chlorine or bromine smell. For those who prefer a non-chlorine shock, using it as a maintenance weekly treatment is the answer. Sure, you still have to measure your sanitizer, but by using a non-chlorine shock to clean up the water, you’ll have less chlorine smell and use less chlorine/bromine. Shocking with non-chlorine shock or granular chlorine sanitizer is recommended once a week or whenever the water appears dull or cloudy or has a strong odor. With non-chlorine shock, you’ll be able to use the vessel 15 minutes after shock treatment.
Note: A strong bromine or chlorine odor typically indicates the vessel needs to be shocked however you should always test the water prior to adding any chemicals. Properly balanced swim spas that are shocked regularly will not have a strong odor.
Here are the steps outlined that should be followed to keep water clean, safe and crystal clear:
Daily: Always maintain 1-2ppm of bromine or 3-5ppm of chlorine, use a test strip to verify your sanitizer level before entering the tub.
Weekly: Add Spa Shock to remove organics that may have accumulated in your water.
Note: Many water care issues can be easily resolved. Be sure to try these tips before calling for service. Water care issues are not covered under the warranty of the ATV™ and you will be responsible for a service call.
There could be a variety of issues related to cloudy water. First, ensure that the filter is correctly installed.
This can happen for various reasons, follow the steps to recover the water:
Musty odor is unpleasant
If your pH is not balanced there are warning signs such as a change in the tint of the water. If your vessel is casting a yellow tint, it could be low alkalinity. Remember to test the spa first to determine if the alkalinity is low. Adjust the alkalinity as needed and follow the instructions on the bottle.
Foaming may be caused by a high concentration of body oils, lotions or soaps. An excessive amount of organics could be an indication of pH in-balance also. Use defoamer, but test the pH to assure you have the right balance and sanitizer in the vessel.
Scum lines are usually a result of things we bring into the vessel that accumulate at the water line. These are things like body oils and dirt. You may increase the clean-up cycle to assure they are trapped in the filters or use the Sponge Glove to clean the vessel. You may also want to ask swimmers to shower before using the vessel; it will help to keep these organics out of the water.
When the sanitizer level is low, you’ll want to treat with your method of sanitizer, not just shock. Remember that shock or MPS has no sanitizing properties, you must use Chlorine or Bromine to create a residual of sanitizer.
Another cause for no reading could be the vessel was sanitized too aggressively and it is bleaching out the test strips. Remove the cover and allow the jets to run for 30 minutes, test the water to see if the desired reading has been achieved. If you suspect the sanitizer level remains too high, you may want to replace some water with fresh so that it will dilute the sanitizer.
Remove the vessel cover and activate jets and air controls. Allow jets to run for 30 minutes. This will put the sanitizer to work on any remaining organics and get used up.
There are two possible reasons for this, the first being an excess of chloramines or bromamines in the water. Shock the spa with a non-chlorine shock. Run the jets for 15 minutes and adjust the sanitizer. Check you pH to assure the water is balanced.
This could be a result of low pH, test the water and adjust as necessary.
If you have a green tint in your water, test the sanitizer level. Chances are you may not have enough sanitizer to combat algae. When water is not continually treated this condition may occur, increase the filtration cycle and add sanitizer as indicated on the test strip.
This is called “bounce” and is attributed to a condition of balance. Your alkalinity or calcium hardness is probably too low causing the pH to go out of range. Test and adjust accordingly.
We hope you will have many years of carefree enjoyment of your ATV Vessel. Should any questions arise that you wish to have answered, please contact us at info@ATVSwimSpas.com.