The ATV features two 90 square foot filters, an ozonator, and an automated water filtration management system called ConstantClean™. This system makes it easy for you to keep ATV clean and keep the water circulating through the vessel. The water is drawn from the top and bottom of the vessel and through the filters, then circulated back out into the vessel.
To truly have clean, safe water, you need three things:
Achieving water balance is easy if you understand what balance can and cannot do. Water balance has nothing to do with sanitization, it is the interrelation of factors that will determine how effective your sanitizers are in the water and whether the factors are “in balance” or not. The primary elements to balancing the water are calcium hardness, total alkalinity and pH. We’ll look at each one separately and why they are important.
Keeping the pH balanced in your vessel is the most critical component of water balance. Calcium hardness and total alkalinity act as buffers to stabilize pH, and when they are adjusted pH will be stable and easy to maintain. pH is a measure of the relative acidity and basicity of water. The ideal pH range for water is between 7.4-7.6. When the pH falls below 7.2 the water can become corrosive. Low pH can cause damage to any of the internal components of your control system or heater. Excessive sanitizer consumption and skin irritation is a symptom of low pH as is persistent foaming. A pH above 7.8 can be scale-forming and allow metals or minerals in the water to stain the vessel surface and cause calcium build-up to form deposits on the vessel heater element, damaging internal components. pH above 7.8 can also cause eye and skin irritation. Using a good pH & Alkalinity Decreaser in the case of high pH or pH Increaser or Alkalinity Increaser for low pH or low alkalinity can be the key to perfect water balance. Be sure to use a brand recommended by Aquatic Training Vessels™.
Alkalinity acts as a buffer to prevent the pH from changing as other substances are added to the water. Stability of the pH is directly related to Alkalinity, which should remain at 80-140 parts per million (ppm). Alkalinity below 80ppm makes it difficult to stabilize the pH. Alkalinity above 140ppm may also increase the pH and cause cloudy water, scaling and decreased efficiency of the sanitizer.
Please note that when using a combined product of pH & Alkalinity Decreaser, it may be better to slowly dose the vessel as large doses will affect the pH, but also have more impact on Alkalinity. For example, if the pH is very high and Alkalinity is within range, you may want to add smaller doses of pH & and Alkalinity Decreaser instead of one single large dose, which can lower your alkalinity. Larger doses will not only drop the pH, but affect alkalinity, which may already be within in range.
Most water will contain some calcium, but what you need is water that has a calcium level somewhere between 200-300ppm. Calcium hardness may be adjusted when filling the vessel with fresh water, so test first to see what the calcium level is before adding any product. “Soft Water” will have most of the Calcium pulled out, so please do not fill your vessel with “Soft Water”. Traditionally Soft Water is treated with Salt and Salt is a corrosive. Ask anyone in the Northeast, when icy roads are salted, they corrode the under carriage of cars. It will do the same to internal components. There should be some calcium in the water, or it may become highly corrosive and damage equipment.
Your vessel can be protected against high calcium levels by using a multi-stage pre-filter that will attract positive ions such as iron, calcium and phosphates. Other ways to reduce minerals is to use a Metal and Stain Remover per the directions on the container. To raise calcium levels, use Calcium Increaser.
Now that the terms related to proper balance have been defined, when initially filling the vessel, follow the simple steps as outlined and make your water care a breeze!
Now that you have balanced the water, it’s time to Sanitize, but first let’s discuss some of the features of your ATV.
Your ATV vessel has been equipped with the SmartClean™ system. The SmartClean system works in conjunction with sanitizers to increase water quality and significantly decrease maintenance. The factory installed ozonator greatly reduced the amount of sanitizer needed. SmartClean also is a part of your filtration, your filters should be cleaned so that they may perform better and remove suspended solids in your water. The filters pull dirty water through so that it may then be treated with ozone, which is a great oxidizer
An ozonator has been installed in your ATV, this acts as a rapid oxidizer that will keep your chemical usage to a minimum. The purpose of ozone is to oxidize organics in the water or remove them from the water. Ozone is a natural oxidizer, it happens in nature, like the smell of a storm after lightning strike. There is a sweet-smell in the air, which is ozone. What occurs is the oxygen molecule is electrified and converts to Oxygenᶟ which in gas form, as it enters the water, once exposed to bacteria and organics, it will get used up and revert back to oxygen. Meaning there is less work for your sanitizer to do.
Because of the cooler water temperatures in a swim spa, you may use Granular Chlorine as a sanitizer. Chlorine is more compatible with the ATV system than most bromine systems, however you may choose Bromine if you are sensitive to Chlorine. Biguanides should not be used and may cause damage to the internal components.
Using a test strip measure your sanitizing level and add the appropriate amount of sanitizer to your vessel. Maintain a 3-5ppm of chlorine or 1-2ppm of bromine at all times.
For your initial treatment, once the water has been balanced, you may now begin the process of sanitizing the vessel using a granular Chlorine Sanitizer OR Bromine.
You should only use non-chlorine shock after you have established a residual of a preferred sanitizer, such as Chlorine or Bromine. As “Shock” is commonly referred to as MPS or Potassium Monopersulfate, which is an oxidizer not a sanitizer, with Chlorine or Bromine, you’ll be able to oxidize and sanitize. Use MPS or non-chlorine shock as a weekly maintenance product.
Once bacteria and other wastes are neutralized by the sanitizer, they will remain in the water unless oxidized or shocked. Often called Chloramines or Bromamines, the spent sanitizer is what remains after killing bacteria, and to get it out of the water, it must be burned off or oxidized. Your ozonator will help with this, but because of the short life of ozone, you will want to also shock. Most pools or swim spas that have well balanced water should not have a chlorine or bromine smell. For those who prefer a non-chlorine shock, using it as a maintenance weekly treatment is the answer. Sure, you still have to measure your sanitizer, but by using a non-chlorine shock to clean up the water, you’ll have less chlorine smell and use less chlorine/bromine. Shocking with non-chlorine shock or granular chlorine sanitizer is recommended once a week or whenever the water appears dull or cloudy or has a strong odor. With non-chlorine shock, you’ll be able to use the vessel 15 minutes after shock treatment.
Note: A strong bromine or chlorine odor typically indicates the vessel needs to be shocked however you should always test the water prior to adding any chemicals. Properly balanced swim spas that are shocked regularly will not have a strong odor.
Here are the steps outlined that should be followed to keep water clean, safe and crystal clear.
Daily: Always maintain 1-2ppm of bromine or 3-5ppm of chlorine, use a test strip to verify your sanitizer level before entering the tub.
Weekly: Add Spa Shock to remove organics that may have accumulated in your water.
ph Increaser - Alkalinity Increaser - pH and Alkalinity Decreaser – These products work to raise or lower pH and Alkalinity, your water source will determine if they are needed. To find if you need these products, use a test strip. They are only needed if the test strips indicates the levels are not in the ideal range.
Water Clarifier – Microscopic particles can pass through the vessel filter and create cloudy water. The use of Water Clarifier combines these particles into larger particles so that they may no longer pass through the filter.
Defoamer – If foam appears in your vessel, it may be a result of lotions, body products, sweat and oils. Two things can help to prevent this, shower before entering will help. Defoamer is a silicone based product which will dampen the ability of foam to appear. If you have used more than three capfuls, please check your water balance with a test strip, there may be another issue with the water balance.
Metal and Stain Remover – If your source water has a high iron or metal content, such as well water, use Metal and Stain Remover to help reduce metals in the water and prevent staining.
Note: Many water care issues can be easily resolved. Be sure to try these tips before calling for service. Water care issues are not covered under the warranty of the ATV™ and you will be responsible for a service call.
There could be a variety of issues related to cloudy water. First, ensure that the filter is correctly installed.
The last step should be your last resort, if Steps 1-6 are followed in the right order, you can recover the water.
This can happen for various reasons, follow the steps to recover the water.
Musty odor is unpleasant
If your pH is not balanced there are warning signs such as a change in the tint of the water. If your vessel is casting a yellow tint, it could be low alkalinity. Remember to test the spa first to determine if the alkalinity is low. Adjust the alkalinity as needed and follow the instructions on the bottle.
Foaming may be caused by a high concentration of body oils, lotions or soaps. An excessive amount of organics could be an indication of pH in-balance also. Use defoamer, but test the pH to assure you have the right balance and sanitizer in the vessel.
Scum lines are usually a result of things we bring into the vessel that accumulate at the water line. These are things like body oils and dirt. You may increase the clean-up cycle to assure they are trapped in the filters or use the Sponge Glove to clean the vessel. You may also want to ask swimmers to shower before using the vessel; it will help to keep these organics out of the water.
When the sanitizer level is low, you’ll want to treat with your method of sanitizer, not just shock. Remember that shock or MPS has no sanitizing properties, you must use Chlorine or Bromine to create a residual of sanitizer.
Another cause for no reading could be the vessel was sanitized too aggressively and it is bleaching out the test strips. Remove the cover and allow the jets to run for 30 minutes, test the water to see if the desired reading has been achieved. If you suspect the sanitizer level remains too high, you may want to replace some water with fresh so that it will dilute the sanitizer.
Remove the vessel cover and activate jets and air controls. Allow jets to run for 30 minutes. This will put the sanitizer to work on any remaining organics and get used up.
There are two possible reasons for this, the first being an excess of chloramines or bromamines in the water. Shock the spa with a non-chlorine shock. Run the jets for 15 minutes and adjust the sanitizer. Check you pH to assure the water is balanced.
This could be a result of low pH, test the water and adjust as necessary.
If you have a green tint in your water, test the sanitizer level. Chances are you may not have enough sanitizer to combat algae. When water is not continually treated this condition may occur, increase the filtration cycle and add sanitizer as indicated on the test strip.
This is called “bounce” and is attributed to a condition of balance. Your alkalinity or calcium hardness is probably too low causing the pH to go out of range. Test and adjust accordingly.
We hope you will have many years of carefree enjoyment of your ATV Vessel. Should any questions arise that you wish to have answered, please contact us at info@ATVSwimSpas.com.